Ancient city of Anatolia

Imagine a bustling city of 250,000 people going about their daily lives in a city built 10 centuries ago and you have Ephesus.
With it's many twists and turns through-out history of being conquered by various rulers, destroyed by earthquakes and being rebuilt 3 times...it took a long time for these ancient people to give up on their beloved city.  

Main Street


As I strolled down the sun soaked main street of marble...roasting like a chicken in the hot June sun with my umbrella at 11am...I could hear their voices. Women bargaining with the shop keepers on the sides of the streets for the goods for their evening meals.

Shops built into hillside where columns held the now missing roof


Chickens clucking and goats baying plaintively. Children running, playing tag and hiding behind the rows of large marble and granite columns. What a grand city it must have been!

 It became the seat of the governor, growing into a metropolis and a major center of commerce. It was second in importance and size only to Rome.  Ephesus has been estimated to be in the range of 400,000 to 500,000 inhabitants in the year 100, making it the largest city in Roman Asia and of the day. Ephesus was at its peak during the first and second century AD.

Library



Theater where many gladiators lost their lives

The city was famed for the Temple of Artemis (Diana), who had her chief shrine there, the Library of Celsus, and its theatre, which was capable of holding 25,000 spectators. This open-air theater was used initially for drama, but during later Roman times gladiatorial combats were also held on its stage, with the first archaeological evidence of a gladiator graveyard found as recently as May 2007.










The population of Ephesus also had several major bath complexes, built at various points while the city was under Roman rule. The city had one of the most advanced aqueduct systems in the ancient world, with multiple aqueducts of various sizes to supply different areas of the city, including 4 major aqueducts.
The city and temple were destroyed by the Goths in 263 AD. This marked the decline of the city's splendor.

All that remain today are the relics of the past, a royal cat and the hoards of tourists that inhabit this medieval ghost town.

Incredible Markets, Leeches and Turkish Viagra...Oh My!

Our second day in Istanbul was spent with Umut for the first part learning the history of the Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar.

Opened in 1461 the Grand Bazaar is one of the oldes and largest covered bazaars in the world. Between 250,000 - 400,000 visitors pass through its gates DAILY. Can you imagine? You can read more about its history here. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grand_Bazaar,_Istanbul

My favorite shopping area turned out to be the Spice Market http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spice_Bazaar,_Istanbul where we found the same things the Grand Bazaar offers only on a smaller scale. You are also treated to honey/nut candies to keep up your energy as you pass by all the shops. Of course we had to purchase some which came in handy on our trip to Ephesus. More on that later.

Here, we learned all about the history of the Spice Bazaar as well as what they do with some of the things we saw hanging in the shops. The things you see hanging here that I wish I could have brought home but getting through customs may have been iffy. It is dried Eggplant that you can take home and boil, then stuff with rice, veggies and beans or meat, cover with tomato sauce and cheese and bake in the the oven until done. YUM!

And did you know that Henna starts out green? I had no idea!

What I was not expecting was this (see photo) and it goes to show that the Turks really have a great sense of humor. Turkish Viagra. Now keep in mind that you can actually purchase the real thing in pharmacies on the corners here as an over the counter drug and the boxes are prominently displayed in the windows as you pass by. This Turkish Viagra is similar to a Power Bar in the U.S. with honey and nuts to keep up your strength for shopping of course. ...because there is PLENTY of shopping to be had!

The only thing I can say is it is a good thing food and lodging is cheap because I blew my budget on jewelry (my favorite thing to purchase when traveling) scarves and Pashminas. I got some beautiful things but have no idea how I am going to get all this extra stuff in my luggage including the cool purse I picked up. Creative packing I guess.

The pastry shops have been a surprise here and just as good as the ones we found in Paris. They take great pride in their culinary prowess and we did some damage to the box of goodies we purchased on our walk.           see before and after?

Speaking of prowess....have I mentioned all the cats? Yes, I am sure I have. The are very abundant because they are revered animals in that they saved humans from being wiped from the planet via the plague. Originally they thought that cats were just lucky and one was fortunate to be in their presence because they (the cats) did not get sick. But then they realized they were actually helping humans by eating the mice who were causing the plagues and other diseases. Shan (who is a veterinarian) and I have been having great fun taking photos of all the cats and sometimes dogs here. The cats have been very lovely and friendly for the most part.

Soon it was time to say goodbye to our guide Umut and as we exited the building I saw a beautiful bucket of roses and right next to it a squirming mass of LEECHES in the container beside them. Apparently they can still suck the illness out of you as well. Maybe they are good luck too?

Having a lovely time in Turkey!

Ciao for now....I am headed to bed for my last exciting day here on the other side of the world. It is now almost 11pm Sunday and we spent the day at Ephesus taking photos. You won't believe my next blog. Cool Stuff!

Mosques, Palaces and other wonderful wonders of the world

For our first couple of days we arranged for a guide through one of my Starbucks co-workers in Turkey (Alev) and it was her personal friend (Umut) a very affible fellow who took us on the tour.

To be a guide, you need to get a masters degree in Architecture and History then pass tests and get a license to be an official tour guide. Not an easy task. Umut was a wealth of information rattling off stories and statistics about everything we saw until our heads were numb. At some point in the heat and 6 full hours of non-stop touring except to break for lunch and the occasional potty break it is difficult to absorb all the information he was giving us at the end of the day. He was an Energizer Bunny and didn't seem to know why we wanted to stop and kept suggesting more places to visit. I didn't see him eat or drink much of anything but I think the chain smoking kept him going. Everyone smokes here. It is hard to take a breath without it.
It goes without saying, the mosques are beautiful! Below is the Blue Mosque.

What struck me most is that it is amazing to see more incredible technical engineering here as I saw in Paris. Especially to think it was built centuries ago. They were so clever and thought out a lot of things to make themselves comfortable. Like a pebbled walkway they poured water over so the breeze would carry cool wind through the courtyard when it was hot. They used a mozaic of stones carefully laid to look beautiful but it was also functional in that it held water in small puddles. This of course was in the Sulten's Palace because he really needed to be comfortable with all the body heat his Harem of 1000 women created.

Nothing like the liberated women you see in this photo (wink) Although I do miss my prince...Hi Steven.
Then think about the incredible Aquaduct built by the Romans http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valens_Aqueduct and Cisterns http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_Cistern they build to carry water for the Palace and for the city in general all those many years ago.
All of this is fascinating to me. Of course I like the touristy stuff. But I really like to know how things work and how people lived all those years ago.  I have more interesting tales to tell but must go to bed now as we are packing up and flying to Ismir to see the ruins of Ephesus and it is already late.
I hope to have a good internet connection down south so I can continue my tale.
Until then...sweet dreams
Teri, Shan and Angela

Holy Flying Ice Cream!

My flight from Paris to Turkey took a little over 3 hours and as we were passing over the landscape I was struck by all the green realizing as we approached it was mainly trees. I expected mostly brown earth with spotty greenery, kind of like when flying into Mexico on vacation. I was also struck by the burnt earth smell as I stepped off the plane. We either think it is ash from the Iceland volcano or Hookah smoke galore. It is also hot and humid here which helps the odors of the country permeate even more.
After I paid my entry Visa fee and found my luggage I made my way to the information desk where a very nice lady pointed me in the direction of the yellow taxis and told me how much I should pay for the ride to my destination. This is something everyone should ask a local because you can get taken for a ride (so to speak) and pay much more than you should.

I was told it should take about 45 minutes by taxi and timed it also looking for signs of the area I knew we were staying so I knew we were headed in the right direction. One of my nightmare scenarios when traveling alone like this is to be dropped off in a neighborhood I don't know, in a country I am unfamiliar with and have the taxi driver leave me there by the road with all my luggage and nowhere to go.

The address was so unfamiliar to him that he had to call dispatch twice to locate it and even drove past this street where we are staying because I am sure he could not envision a blonde haired, blue eyed American lady staying here.

But when I started to step out of the taxi I heard my name called by a familiar and oh so welcome voice (Shan) and that they would be right down to help me with my luggage. With a sigh of relief, I handed my driver 20 Euro and let him drive away.

The aparment really is modern and nice. Nothing like you would expect walking up this street. It has one bedroom, a fold out bed and a full kitchen and washer for our clothes.

Fast forward a couple of hours and we are in Taksim, one of the main streets of Istanbul and after having a meal, sitting down for a drink and dessert we are taking numerous photos of Hookah smokers and cats. They are both EVERYWHERE. We then start walking down the street which is both very modern but also not so modern. Shan and Angela explain to me that the noisy large trucks coming at us are street sweepers which is the oddest thing because they are there every night driving through these huge crowds trying to run down tourists and locals alike. Then you are dodging trolly cars (another wierd thing to see) and people then cars and hoards of taxis crossing in locations where there should only be pedestrians.

If that is not enough to keep you alert, watch for the swinging blocks of ice cream. Angela and I were nearly Cold-Cocked (pun intended) by a huge chunk of chocolate ice cream men with strong arms stir with a metal sword like stick then swing it out into the crowd for effect. (see photo) They take great joy in doing this and love to hear the crowd scream with excitement. After asking our guide the following day about this and how it is possible that the ice cream could even hold together for such a feat he said it is made with some sort of cows milk and root or something I lost in translation which gives it the elasticity to stay on the stick. Fascinating stuff!

So this is my experience the first night in Istanbul, Turkey. Hope you enjoy the photos.

Teri

One Thousand Sixty Three feet above Paris

Built in 1889 as the entry point or arch to the World's Fair, Gustave Eiffel created a vision that became a global icon. Millions flock to it every year to gaze upon its engineering wonder and ascend to the top just as Steven and I did on our last day in Paris together May 29th. As if the height alone were not enough to create a high...we also drank a champagne toast to life, eachother and a fantastic week together. Creating great memories is one our favorite things to do and I don't know what we are going to do to top this one.

Other wonders we visited were the Notre Dame Cathedral with it's immense flying buttresses and incredible history you can read here Notre_Dame_de_Paris, check out this fabulous stained glass window and another photo from the outside.
We also went to a fun wine tasting at a local Cave aka Wine Shop and walked through the Luxembourg Gardens on our way to the most fabulous Italian Dinner for our last night together. Another special memory...I will always cherish our days in Paris.

Sadly, it had to end and this morning we rode the train to the airport and at the terminal had to go our separate ways...Steven to Seattle and me on to Turkey. It is almost 1AM and I think I will turn in now. Have had a few hours in Turkey so far and it is quite a weird and exotic adjustment from France.
Take care and I will update you on tomorrow's adventures.
T

Paris Ponderings and Art

I cannot even begin to explain the emotion one has when standing in front of one of the great works of Monet or Rodin or even a Cathedral called Chartes that took 300 years to build with it's many angles and stained glass windows. In a word...it is literally breath-taking. It steals your breath, it makes you weep. Not only for the beauty these masters created but also for the tragic lives they led and their stories of inner battle for acceptance in this world. Many never saw their works completed or the grandure of their art hung in a gallery. Yesterday was one of those days that took me by surprise. I was completely taken by Claude Monet's art exhibit "Lily Pond." It inhabits 2 large oval rooms covering all the walls. You are not allowed to talk...just meditate on the art itself. You can take pictures without a flash of which I took many. What an incredible experience. I am humbled.

It started raining in Paris yesterday and continues today. Steven and our friends are out shopping at the local farmers market now as I type this. It is Noon here. We will be preparing a large dinner for our friends and their family who will be visiting us in the apartment tonight. The apartment is a beautiful yet typical parisian apartment with high ceilings, a large living room and very small bedrooms (3 of them). It is in an incrdible location where you can walk around the corner to see the Pantheon where many famous artists are buried...walk a few steps further and you can see the top 1/3 of the Eiffel Tower. We have not visited it yet but will go on Friday. Our friend Dominique has been so gracious to let us stay here with her and Jose. There are so many things to see in a week and we are a bit tired today so have decided to just cook and enjoy our friends company on this rainy day.

I hope you are all well. I will continue to update you on our incredible journey for the remainder of this week then on to Turkey by myself to meet up with my friends on Sunday.
Take care,

T&S

The Loire

Yesterday we drove to the countryside to stay with friends and visit the beautiful castles and wine regions of France. We have been lucky to have beautiful warm weather and are now relaxing on the internet Hotel patio of a very small village in the Loire. Yesterday we visited several beautiful castles (Chambord and Chenonceaux) and a huge wine tasting of Vouvray in a large and winding cave with modern floor and lighting. It was amazing! Having a wonderful time in France. Enjoy the pictures.

Teri and Steven

Paris...really I am here!

Star date 2010.5.20


When I think of travel just a few years back on those steamer ships I am in awe as I look at the screen in the seat in front of me. It is truly a marvel and we are so fortunate in this day and age to be able to explore distant lands in a matter of hours.

The little screen shows me a global positioning map of where we are flying this very minute and as we pass over Iceland, I can’t help but wonder about that volcano and how it is feeling today. The screen slowly rotates through French and English versions of air speed…548 miles per hour, Altitude…38000 feet, outside temperature -58 degrees….brrr. No wonder I am cold. It also tells me how much longer we have before landing and what time it is in Paris.

So far, I have eaten a nice Kosher dinner of Oriental Chicken and rice, had a glass of French white wine and savored a pack of peanut M&M’s for dessert. Normally after about 4 hours I have had enough when I am on a jet but since I knew it was an almost 10 hour flight from Seattle I have entertained myself a lot. Read some of my book, watched 2 movies and one Sex in the City episode. Time to stand up and walk around . Only 2 ½ hours and we will be over the ocean and in Paris. Can’t wait to get over this jet lag and start my vacation with Steven and the rest of our friends.

Update: I am in Paris! Going to take a nappy pooh now. Just letting you all know I am here and safe staying with my friends Jose and Dominique near the Pantheon Church.

Flight to Paris

Yippee...now it is my turn to go to Europe and I am so excited! Waiting to board the plane for Paris and get picked up by Jose at the airport. Photo was taken at SeaTac.
Will post more on the other side when I get my sea legs back.
Till then...keep your channel tuned to this station :)
T

Spain

Daniel is traveling tonight on a plane...I can see the red tail lights...heading for Spaaiiin...oh oh and, I can see Steven waving goodbye. (set to Elton John's tune Daniel)
After much anticipation and stress we awoke at 3am Friday morning to make sure Steven was ready for his 3:50am shuttle ride to the airport. He called me from JFK to say he had arrived in NY safely and sent this picture. Cute, huh? He has arrived in Madrid safely and called via Skype to let me know around 12:15am Saturday. Although he could hear me, I couldn't hear him but got the voicemail later. I will continue to update as I hear more from him and as my poor finger allows. For those of you who do not know, I cut it with a rather large knife Tuesday night and had to get stitches in ER. Steven was a trooper holding my hand while I nearly passed out.

Have fun my sweet man and see you soon!

Gearing up for trips

Well...the week is finally here and Steven will be leaving for Spain on Friday the day after I take him to see the Eagles concert in Seattle. We are watching the Iceland volcano closely because it is now threatening air travel in Spain. I leave the following week for Paris so we will see if mother nature wants to cooperate. After a whirlwind trip to Chicago last week to attend Emily and Elliot's wedding it is all starting to feel like a blur. We are looking forward to our individual trips as well as meeting up in Paris to tour the Loire Valley with our friends.

Stay tuned for pictures and more adventures with Teri and Steven!

Ciao for now!

Seattle to Sayulita, Mexico...what an adventure!

It was 4am when I awoke and looked at my clock. I could not sleep as I knew our shuttle would be arriving around 5:50am to transport us to SeaTac Airport.

It was snowing as we boarded the plane at 8:30am for our much needed vacation in Mexico. They took their time de-icing the plane which was fine with me but it delayed us by about a half hour. Then there was a medical emergency right after we were pushed away from the gate. An older gentleman who did not look well at all was having heart problems. They pushed us back to the gate, the paramedics came on board and decided to remove him and his wife after assessing the situation. An hour and a half later we were ready to take off amongst a flurry of crying, puking and screaming babies all around us in the back of the plane. I knew how they felt…what a way to start a vacation!

Our B & B is just lovely though and I got my first Margarita and sunburn. It is warm and beautiful down here. About 85 degrees during the day. A much needed break from the cold and intensity of life. I found that my cell phone does not work here so we can be reached through our Host and Hostess at Hacienda de la Costa. Ironically their names are Steve and Terri, they have a green granite counter top in their kitchen almost identical to ours and some of the similarities are down right spooky. Maybe we should be the ones living this life and just don't know it yet...

There are 2 black and white kitties and 3 dogs. Every one of them was a rescue and they are very happy and lucky pets.

This afternoon we walked a long dirt (and sometimes cobblestone) road 45 minutes into town and had a wonderful dinner of Chile Rellenos at the Calypso Restaurant. It is situated at the town square of this charming little village called Sayulita where we could watch all the activity of tourists and locals alike from our bird’s eye view. My favorite was when the horseman road through town with 3 other saddled horses in tow.
Enjoy the pictures until I write again. I would have posted more but they take forever to upload. The one of the snow is at the airport and the sunset was taken as I sat at the B&B bar sipping my drink. Ah…to contemplate my painted toenails and do nothing for a while. This is the life for me!
Teri and Steven